An Accessible, Yet Challenging Hike through Mount Aspiring National Park

14/05/18 ~ 18/05/18 (end of autumn)

Gillespie Pass Circuit

The Gillespie Pass Circuit is a multi-day hike about an hour drive north or Wanaka in Mount Aspiring National Park. It is typically done as a 4-5 day hike with a one day sidetrip to Crucible Lake.

Topo Map of Gillespie Pass route — Map of our hike

Overview

Terrain Type:

Flat
Mostly flat with some hills / moderate climbs
Hilly with moderate climbs
Hilly with steep climbs
consistent steep climbs

Trail Condition:

Signposted path
Marked graded trail
Marked rough trail
Partially marked poor condition trail
Unmarked no trail (backcountry)

Experience Level Required:

No hiking experience needed
Some hiking skills recommended
Hiking experience required (some potentially dangerous terrain)
Hiking experience required / additional safety equipment advised
Only experienced professionals should attempt

Important Notes:

Several river crossings knee-waist deep, moderate flow rate in the Makarora River (if bypassing Blue Pools bridge). River crossings would be not recommended after moderate-heavy rainfall.
Can start/finish trail with a jetboat from Makarora in peak season – skips one of the hardest sections of the trail along the Wilkin River. Allow extra time for difficult trail conditions if not taking boat (as we experienced)
Parking limiting at northern trail access – hitching a ride is advised from Makarora (easy tourist route), or have transport planned
No marked trail from Wilkin River to trailhead, no marked river crossing (see map below for ideal crossing)

Topo map showing river crossing — A suitable river crossing point

Lake Crucible and Mount Alba long exposure — Lake Crucible and Mount Alba

The Hike

Day 1 – Makarora River

The hiking day began from driving to Wanaka from Dunedin (about 3.5 hours) and meeting up with Steph, a girl who agreed to attempt the hike with me whom i met on a backpacker Facebook page. Hiking alone is something I’ve become used to, but it was time to hike with someone else to mix it up. After coffees and a brief introduction, we set out to the trailhead, approximately 2.5km past the tiny township of Makarora alongside the Makarora River.

Sheep on a grassy field with a forested mountain — Can’t start a good hike in NZ without sheep

Having no real information about where to park my car, i decided to leave it there at the trailhead, although space was limited to maybe 4 cars in total – luckily, i don’t think this was a popular hike at this time of the year. After crossing through a property, you end up on the Makaroa River.

Walking upstream just past the Young River intersection, we found the widest and flattest point to cross the river. After testing the flow rate and depth on myself first and feeling a moderate pull and reaching my upper thighs, it was decided to hold each others lower arms and cross together (Steph was only a small girl).

Makarora river and clouds — Initial Makarora River crossing (looking from trail side after crossing)

Trail through forest and moss — The mossy edged trails never get old here in NZ

Young River

Following the Young River, we gradually ascended the gentle rise. The trail was rough in places, but not too bad. We met two young guys who spent two days at the hut hunting for Chamois (a goat-antelope like animal common to hunt in the area). They had been successful with the fresh animal pelts hanging off their packs!

gillespie pass circuit — Suspension bridge over the Young River

Young Hut

The hike from the river to Young Hut was ambitious, as we didn’t start until 1pm or so and it was started to take about 6-7 hours at 20km distance and 400m of elevation climb.

Our coffee stop over turned out to be a little too long! I’m used to outhiking the paces set on these hikes, but we ran out of daylight and ended up night hiking for the final two or so hours as the sun set at around 5:30pm, and reaching the (thankfully empty) hut at 7:30pm.

Young hut was built in 2006 making it a fairly modern, and fairly well equipped hut. It had plenty of wood and coal stocks left by the last hikers for a fire! Just what we needed as it was chilling off!

Young hut interior — Sleeping near the fire

Day 2

After replenishing the wood supplies we used and cleaning up, we set up for the big day – Gillespie Pass! The hike to the base of the pass was fairly easy-going overall. A gentle increase up the valley, almost right to the end before veering off to the left to head over the pass.

Forested valley with Mt Awful in the background — Out of the forest, into the tussock fields

The Climb to Gillespie Pass

We actually encountered two Chamois on the hill. I couldn’t get a good shot of them with my wide-angle lens, but Steph got a photo on her camera, and it looked headless (they have a lighter head colour). We had a good laugh about that one!

Girl hiking through tussock fields towards mountains — Hiking through the tussock

The climb was 900m up to the pass from the valley. It was… steep! Our fresh legs felt the climb and it was very slow going up what felt like a near vertical (slight exaggeration) trail.

Girl climbing steep grassy slope with mountains — Well… we’re about 200m higher… only 700m to go

Tussock grass covered mountains and valley — Looking back toward the valley we came

Gillespie Pass

Eventually, we made it! The top of the pass was amazing – with views to Mt Awful at the far end of the pass and several unnamed peaks nearby, including one of the more spectacular ones which I call Mt 2026 (its elevation). The clouds were rolling over Mt Awful, but the weather held strong for us.

Selfie of two hikers with mountains in background — We made it! Gillespie Pass!

Mt Awful and clouds — Mt Awful, the highest peak in our immediate views – tempting to summit if i had brought my ice axe and spikes

Hiker looking at Mt Awful and clouds — Mt Awful, you’re alright… stop hiding in the clouds

Hiker and view of mountain with snow, clouds and tussock — Gazing at the beautiful unnamed ‘Mount 2026’

From the pass, you ascend a small peak nearby and begin descending after following the back side down into the Siberia valley below. The descent was a little longer, at 1000m and again very steep.

Snow, mountains and clouds — Finding snow when it’s still before winter is satisfying

Descent from Gillepsie Pass

Hiker climbing down the tussock grass slop into Siberia valley — Not quite as steep going down into Siberia Valley as the way up to Gillespie Pass… yet…

The daylight was running away from us again, but we were on target to make it to Siberia Hut at sunset. The last section of the descent was the forest, with a myriad of root footholds to work with thankfully. By the time the bottom of the valley was reached we were quite tired and sore. Yet we still had several kilometres of valley hiking to go (roughly an hour to the hut).

Steep climb down tree roots and forest with hiker — OK, now it’s relatively steep…

Sunset over the mountain range — Nightfall is ascending upon us

Siberia Hut

Siberia Hut was even newer than Young Hut, being built in 2011. It would serve as a popular overnight spot to summer hikers who’d jetboat in – however, there were no signs of people when we arrived – two nights in a row! It should be stated, I’ve never stayed in huts without always having at least one other person there.

We got the fire going again and chilled out with dinner followed by a game of Canasta. Sadly, Stephs boots ‘shrunk’ in size a little as i had put them a little too close to the fire with coals radiating a lot more heat than I’m used to. Visually, they appeared fine – as they were moved early, but it turns out they were a little tight-fitting now! Oops!

Siberia Hut amongst the grass and forest — Siberia Hut

Mist and grass in the valley — Looking down Siberia Valley from Siberia Hut

Day 3 – Siberia Valley

Today was the side trip to Crucible Lake – a glacial lake tucked in below Mt Alba by a moraine (wall of rock pushed by a glacier in the past). The hut isn’t in the best position to access this side trip if doing the circuit, and we needed to backtrack up the valley from where we’d come the day before for an hour. There were numerous small stream crossings to cross, all below knee level.

Hiker crossing a stream in a mist filled valley — Leaving Siberia Hut – stream crossings and morning mists

Blue water stream amongst the tussock grass and forest — I want to come back and float this river in summer, it’s so calm and beautiful

Hiker in the valley with clouds and mountains — Mt Dreadful in the distance

The Climb to Crucible Lake

Then came the climb up the side of the waterfall and through dense forest. Again, a steep climb! Luckily, the roots provided great holds and made it relatively easy. Sadly, there was no real good view of the lengthy cascading waterfall on the left, aside from one pool section.

Hiker in the forest and frest — Veering off into the forest

Forested trail with roots and moss — Up, up, up

The valley walk at the top was fairly wet and muddy, like a lot of the trail had been so far, but was very scenic with Mt Alba looming in the background. There was another stream crossing to be done, further ensuring my shoes wetness.

It’s hikes like this where you either put a lot of effort into good boots with gator protection, or go with something that will get wet, yet dries quickly. Hiking with trail runners ensures the second option for me. I am very used to wet hiking in them (from all that snow hiking on the Pacific Crest Trail in 2017!) and it doesn’t really change the comfort level like it does in boots.

Long exposure shot of a stream in the rocks and forest — A pretty stream fed by the lake

Steam and forest with Mt Alba — Views of Mt Alba from a picturesque stream

Tussock grass Valley looking at Mt Alba — Mountains of might and the lake moraine visible

Crucible Lake

There was another short climb up to Crucible Lake, and we were rewarded with beautiful views of it and the glaciers of Mt Alba. If you arrive in Spring, you will even see chunks of glacial ice in the lake, but not in Autumn sadly. For a moment i felt like i was back in Patagonia as we sat there eating lunch!

The moraine edge of lake Crucible and mountains — Standing on the moraine edge

Girl looking over Crucible Lake and Mt Alba — Admiration of natures beauty

The hike back to Siberia Hut was faster and easier going back down into the valley. I made the decision to shoulder carry Steph over ever stream crossing as my shoes were already drenched but much easier to dry than her Goretex boots – this made crossings a lot faster and I think Steph appreciated the lack of effort required on her part haha 🙂 . By the time we reached the hut, the cold valley mists were rolling in and the sun was setting – good timing!

Hiker standing on the edge of a stream in the forest — The stream where I decided to just shoulder carry Steph from now on

Sun star over the valley and mountains — Last rays of light behind Mt Alba and the lake (centre)

Waterfall in the rocks — Just a tiny section of a long cascade downstream from Crucible Lake

Colourful clouded sunrise over the tussock grass, forest and stream — Sunset right before returning to Siberia Hut

Day 4 – Siberia Valley to Wilkin Valley

The goal was to walk out today, but we had considered the potential longer trip over Rabbit Pass. However, knowing Stephs shrunken boot situation as her feet were a little cramped and the time taking us to progress, we decided just to complete the circuit out the Wilkin Valley.

My thoughts were that this day would be the easiest as there was only a small ridge to climb at the junction of Siberia Stream and the Wilkin River. However it was going to be the longest day distance-wise, with 26km of hiking to get through.

Siberia Hut and forest — Two nights alone with that glorious hut to ourselves was awesome. If we had more food, could have stayed a third.

The first 7km section from Siberia Hut to where you’d arrive/board the boat (if you pre-arranged it) near Kerin Forks Hut (the hut was on the other side of the river) was on a very easy well graded trail – probably due to the common overnight trip tourists would use via the jetboat. There is a gorge section at the end of Siberia Stream that offered stunning views of the morning sun and valley below. Once we reached the boat docking point, the trail deteriorated into… nothingness.

Hiker on trail in the forest — Glamping level hiking track! Wow!

Sun star over the misty valley and forest — Oh hey sun! Good morning!

Wilkin River looking through tree branches — Wilkin River

Wilkin Valley

It’s very clear most people take the boat option, as the trail was rough (if even present) through what appeared to be grazing land for cattle (some fenced off areas). Navigation wasn’t an issue, as it was just following the valley along the Wilkin River. It became muddy animal track hiking, mixed with section of (quite pretty) forest hiking.

Tussock grass field with lone trees — The flat areas became grazing lands

Sun behind the clouds at sunset — Clouds started to roll over… rain was on its way

The forest parts were generally well-marked, but the trail was so rough, and covered with fallen logs and trail slips, it made for slow hiking. At one point there was even a dead cow trapped in the mud right on the trail! Steph couldn’t stomach walking over it and had to take the route via the riverbed haha.

This section turned out to be a real mental challenge as it was slow and not really very rewarding. There were many tree blowdowns and past avalanche carnage. We both laughed and understood why people take the boat past this section!

As we approached the end of the Wilkin Valley, sunset was falling. There was no way we were going to have enough light to see safe crossing points on the Makarora River. It almost looked like we were going to be camping on the cow paddock.

Thankfully, Steph found a nice little spot perched on the hill that was just flat enough to set up my tent. By the time the tent was up, it was dark and cold. It looked like it was going to rain as well – the spot was perfect for water flow if it got bad too. We didn’t bother with too much of a dinner that night, just some simple ziplock bag mashed potato for me. We were exhausted!

Day 5

It did rain in the night, but we were dry (aside from my shoes) and rested. We only had a few kilometres to hike to the river and upstream until we found a safe place to cross. We had another obstacle though, a wall of cows! Steph was quite intimidated as they all lined up and encircled us, but they didn’t have calves, so i wasn’t too worried.

Hiker on the grassy river plain with moutnain in the background — Out of the Wilkin Valley and back towards the Makarora River

Makarora River Crossing

We reached the river – civilisation was only across the other side. However, the river was too fast and deep in most places. I was beginning to think we’d have to hike all the way back to where we initially crossed way upstream.

Scouting paid off in the end, as I found a spot where i thought was safe to cross. It was wide and fast flowing here, but only knee-deep. We ended up crossing three individual sections of stream instead of the whole thing in one go. This was good because it was freezing cold. The last thing we wanted were our muscles to seize up mid crossing!

Hiking across a river with mountains — We tried to cross, but it was too deep in most places

River and mountains — Where we crossed – see map at top of post for a more accurate route

Upon reaching the opposite riverbank I used my map to located the easiest access point to the main road, which was School St one property over. We crossed the property which joined on to School Rd, and then the main road from there.

Cows staring at oncoming hikers on the trail — The second cow blockade!

Wanaka

We got a hitch in the space of 30 seconds (ahh the perks of hiking with another girl!). The ride was from an American and a Canadian girl who were tourists themselves. It was only a short ~5 km ride back to my car parked at the trailhead. First thing on the agenda was a burger at Red Star in Wanaka (which was amazing) and a walk along Lake Wakana before i departed back home.

Tree in lake with a sun star — That Wanaka Tree, leafless in the autumn sun

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