A Mount Tronador Hike – A Long Journey of Endless Beauty

Argentina

20/01 ~ 27/01

Mount Tronador Hike – Introduction

Bariloche the city, is right next to a series of peaks and valleys to the west. All with a network of hiking routes within, but with very limited car access. There are huts in the area called refugios, which are often manned and pride basic amenities and sometimes (expensive) food with beer or wine. You can also sleep in them, but most camp in tents.

I had planned on doing a Mt Tronador hike – hiking from the ski resort to Mt Tronador itself – the highest mountain in the area at around 3400m. After, i’d return via bus from the only tiny place accessible by car, Pampa Linda. I planned a longer trip than most others who would usually take 4-6 days on a more direct route. It ended up taking me around 8 days and was approximately 100km in total of hiking.

Fri (20/01) – Starting the Mount Tronador Hike

After some brief packing and light breakfast, I left the hostel at 9am to catch the bus to Cerro Cathedral ski resort, the starting point of my hike. The first day on paper looked easy, a short 3 or so hour climb to the first refugio – Frey. Let me tell you it was no walk in the park!

The upward climb was rapid and never let up, and with no breeze it was hot. I did pass numerous people along the way going up and coming down. Frey is a popular day trip spot. It was quite nice looking back onto the lakes in the background. The final few kilometers were in a cool forest with a gentle stream. It was quite nice, so I had lunch there by the stream.

Refugio Frey

After continuing again, I made it to the top by around 2pm. The refugio sat at the foreground of Laguna Toncek and looking up the rocky hill was the campsite area. My first thoughts were that it was rough. People had built walls of stone on the southern side to block the winds raging up from the lake below.

Luckily, I was relatively early, and only about about a third of the sites were taken. I chose a spot right at the top, there was a large clearing with a large wall already built. I stripped a smaller wall nearby and increased its size for greater protection.

The wind was periodic but very strong. My tent can handle decent winds, but the flapping would become irritating. The rock bivouac next to me would have to suffer, as I removed rocks from it for my wall (no one set up there in the end anyway).

I immediately went down to the lake and stood in the water to wash my feet and checked out the area. The water was cool and refreshing, enticing me to swim almost, but the wind was cold. I stayed down there for awhile, before asking what they had on the menu at the refugio.

It was only for reserved guests only (I was being a rebel and didn’t reserve a site as it was booked out – yet there was still about fifteen good tent spots left). ‘No matter‘, I think, ‘looks like pasta and sauce for dinner‘.

I got out my amazing $2 tetra pack of red wine and has some afternoon beverages. Yes you read that right… tetra pack, not even a goon sack! All I needed was a straw, and I’d feel like a kid in school drinking… juice. I sat on the rock nearby, overseeing most of the campsite and filled my trusty Hellfest cup with this delectable red wine (anything is good when hiking), and relaxed.

I looked around at my tent neighbours; two tents on my side (but not very close), and one tent down the hill to the right. This second tent contained three American girls in bikinis – I’ll admit my gaze lingered there longer than intended. In my defense though, the scenery was generally spectacular.

The lake in the background combined with the spires from the surrounding peaks added that final touch. After, I made dinner and fed a little bird some onion haha. It didn’t like it obviously, so I gave it some biscuit crumbs for amusing me.

Sat (21/01)

After a coffee, some croissants and biscuits, I packed up and started toward the trail to refugio Jacob, my next stop. I walked around the lake to the far side and looked up. ‘Wow, I have to climb that!‘ I say to myself.

The climb was a scree slope of loose rocks with large boulders to skirt around. It was probably one of the steepest mountains I’d climbed by this point. The first part wasn’t too bad, I just had to ensure I paid attention to loose stones and use my poles for balance if I took a wrong step.

I made it up to another smaller lake which was very nice. At this point I was the only one here, but there were two groups behind me. I then proceeded to the next part of the mountain, which was very very steep, and required more technical manoeuvres than the first part. The group behind me were boulderers wearing helmets. I handled the climb with ease in the end, albeit it took a long time.

At the top, I found a brown eagle, one I’ve never seen before – it was so cool! I fed it a sultana and a peanut, being so generous of course. Going down the other side was steep and technical at first. It was all rocky ledges and scree, but it became easier further down the scree turned into a light coarse sand. This was hard to traverse at first, but I realise that is was kind of like snow, and with with poles I scree-skied down the slope! It was efficient and fun!

The valley below was short, but scenic. There was a great campsite in the middle amongst the trees, but it was too early, to camp yet and I wanted to make it to refugio Jacob over the next pass. I passed a beautiful waterfall and got some quick shots.

I met an Israeli couple going the same way. We hiked together over good conversation, including discussing where we can been. This was handy as we were travelling in opposite directions and good more insight into good areas. The hike up the next mountain was draining, but straightforward. When we arrived at the saddle of the two mountains, we met a dramatic view. We chilled there for awhile, and I brewed a tea and marvelled the scenery. The couple gave me a piece of delicious peanut nougat-like stuff to try that was amazing!

Refugio Jacob

The descent was mostly rocky scree slopes and long, but at the bottom was the refugio. We found a clearing and set up our tents next to each other. At this point I was hot and wanted a wash, so I went to the rock ledge and jumped in the water, frantically rinsing sweat off as fast as I could as the water was damn cold!

Shortly after, an older group that left around the same time as me arrived – two South Africans, and two Americans – who also set up next to us.

The South Africans were a good laugh, and I joined them all for dinner inside the refugio. They had the nice back country freeze dried meals brought over from The States (you can’t buy anything like that here), and shared a little with me. We all bought a beer there, but they were damn expensive, as they needed to be brought in via horseback or hiking – one was enough! Then it was sleepy time.

Sun (22/01)

In the morning, I made my coffee and ate some of my croissant, biscuits (now crumbs) and some dried fruit. A few of us went to go get some good reflection shots by the lake as the sun rose above the ridge.

I packed up, said goodbyes to everyone I met (we were all going different ways) and headed off around the back of the campsite and towards the river.

It was a gentle slope downwards, following the river. The path was a little rough at times with bamboo poking out and some large washouts, but for the most part it was fairy easy.

About half way down a Danish guy called Martin caught up to me. I had seen him before when I was on the peak prior to refugio Jacob. We hiked and chatted together for the rest of the way. There was a deep gorge on our right with cascading rapids and small falls. However, I could only hear this, as I was above too far. The trail never went down to the river and that annoyed me (it’s too rough to make you’re own trail there too).

After missing on seeing the entire gorge, we came into a campsite. It was right by the river and no one was there. Being only 3pm it was a bit early, but I decided to stay there, and it meant I didn’t need to back track to the new trailhead. Martin went on to his planned campsite, and we parted ways. He was doing a similar trip to me, but from here he is going in the opposite direction to head back to Bariloche after.

The first thing I did was have a river wash. I was getting used to the process by now. I don’t like using soap in the clean water as its just polluting, but I really needed to wash clothes and myself, so I made an exception here – I never use much. The process is: apply a tiny amount of soap to body and clothes.

Get in water quite fast, and frantically splash around like a drowning duck washing myself, then grab clothes and ‘knead’ them in the water – always ensuring both sides of socks are clean! Sometimes I end up with a a variety of assorted items inside them. I hung the clothes on trees, and set up my solar charger nearby, before setting up my tent.

It was this area I really starting noticing the bloodsucking horseflies (similar to March flies) becoming more common. The solution is to set up the tent inner as it was too hot for the outer fly just yet. Then finally,  inside the cocoon of safety 😛 .

I chilled out laying down on my inflatable pad and used my clothes mesh bag as my pillow – it’s actually really comfortable to the point where I don’t even miss my bed (I’m sure after 10 months I won’t be saying that!). I’ve been watching Breaking Bad again, and I use it sometimes for down time. I love being able to hike all day and watch stuff / read in my tent after!

Just before nightfall, I made a cheesy lentil and pasta combination. The powdered cheese sauce is pretty gross, I thought. I went to bed after, that flowing river sound sent me to sleep in minutes – I love camping by rivers!

Mon (23/01)

After my typical breakfast, I set off again. I planned on heading north up to Laguna Azul (this name, meaning Blue Lake, is becoming very common I’ve noticed). It was an uphill climb day, but not steep. I was following a river the entire day, which was probably the most enticing river I’ve seen to swim in. There were many pools and cascades to relax in. I was almost tempted, but it was still early morning and the sun wasn’t overhead for warmth.

The whole day was beautiful and eventually I came out of the forested area and onto rocky waterfalls and I knew I was close to the lake.

 Laguna Azul

I reached the lake around 2pm. It was spectacular, and lived up to its blue name! I immediately a family from Buenos Aires who spoke English and they invited me to share lunch with them. Normally I’d decline the offer of free meals – I’m not exactly the needy. Then I realised that I wanted their food more than ever, and obliged to accept. Their hospitality was exceptionally generous.

They offered home made bread with Argentinian breaded meat (essentially a thin beef schnitzel?), a piece of egg and potato quiche, an apple and some chocolate. To top it off, they gave me all excess bread and some more quiche to black for later. I was stoked – ‘trail angels’ they’d be called in The States. That extra meal gave me almost an extra day of food!

The boys went to a private Scottish school (English speaking) in Buenos Aires, and they said I should work there as they were in need of science teachers. I took the information down and their surname and we parted ways. I was very grateful for their company on the beautiful lake.

My next decision was weather or not to get up to the ridge today. It was a STEEP climb (essentially, to the ridge above me in the photo above). The wind started to pick up, so I found a small clearing in the trees and pitched my tent. ‘The climb can wait until I’m rested in the morning‘, I think. I didn’t cook a meal for dinner thanks to the big lunch.

Tues (24/01)

‘Up and at em!‘ I set off early, with only having a light breakfast – a full stomach on a hard hike can be troublesome. The whole time I’ve been following a trail, but this was kind of a section between two trails that isn’t obvious.

I ascended past the forest and could see roughly where I was going. The problem is that it’s not marked and people have made separate trails (probably from going the wrong way). I actually went too far up the hill at one point, and had to back-track. One slip on this climb meant pretty much a quick slide into the lake below.

It was daunting in some parts, but I was careful. I used my poles to scout for loose rocks and support, keeping my weight toward the slope. Once I got past the dangerous rock face, it was a scree slope of loose stones. These slopes aren’t much of an issue, but make it impossible to follow any trail.

I went way off course at one point, and again climbed too far in the wrong direction. *Sigh* ‘back down I go!’. Perspective on a slope is hard, sometimes you think you’re on the top of a ridge but you’re not.

My Backcountry Navigator app really helped with finding the main trail on the ridge – I’ve been using it extensively this hike as you can tell with contours which parts will be challenging. I felt good when I made it to the top.

Laguna Creton was to my right and Laguna Azul to my left (where I came from). It was spectacular looking back it where I came from. The walk along the ridge was flat, but windy and cold. I needed my rain jacket for wind protection.

Los Capitan Mirador

After many ups and downs on scree slopes, I was near the top of the final climb (I was about 1950m high), and out if nowhere – Tronador! ‘WOW!’ I said aloud with enthusiasm. ‘Holy shit!’. I hadn’t been able to see Mount Tronador the whole time due to other mountains being in the way. It was an amazing experience, and one I won’t forget.

Mount Tronador is covered in glaciers, more than I’ve seen on any mountain so far. On top of the ridge I dropped my pack and took my camera and poles alone for a stroll to Los Capitan Mirador, a panoramic lookout about 2km away off the trail. This view was amazing.

Laguna Ilon

I made my was back to my pack and continued down the trail to Laguna Ilon, my next destination. The lake was nice (not quite as nice as Azul), and it had a ‘beach’, which I decided to camp on. It was an early camp again, but why skip over nice places.

I had some cheese and salami wraps and found a suitable site. The damn horseflies were around so I set up my tent inner again and relaxed in the sun, and took some photos. There were several Argentinians camping here. ‘Not a lot of international tourists outside of the refugios‘, I think.

A few hours before sunset (which is about 9:30pm here), I decided to to go up to Doctors Mirador and catch the sunset. It was quite a long walk, but easy without my gear. Sadly it isn’t a good view of Tronador, but offered great views of the immediate lakes, and it was a lone rock outcrop jutting out in a valley.

I climbed to a precious high point, took some photos and watched the sun disappear behind the mountains. I made it back when the light completely disappeared (I had my head lamp in case). As soon as I got to the beach, who was there? Martin from Denmark! We met again travelling in opposite directions. We chatted through our past two days since we last saw each other, and went to bed around midnight.

Wed (25/01)

I slept in this morning, and even Martin was packed before me (he never leaves early). We said farewell again, as there was no way we’d cross paths again. I was originally going to go to Pampa Linda today, and then head towards Mt Tronador. Pampa Linda was the place I intended to finish and get a bus from at the end. It’s basically a holiday centre with two buildings, and has private bus service.

However, that changed. I found out a new route had been made to refugio Rocca, where I wanted to go before Tronador. I went to go find it – a small deviation off the path I took to the lookout before. There it was, marked with blue painted markers.

I followed it for a few kilometers, but after awhile the blue markers disappeared, yet I was still following a trail of sorts. I back-tracked a little, but after no success, I went ahead and followed this unmarked trail. It was generally going on the right direction after all.

I ended up arriving at a forested cliff face, and there was no more trail. ‘Shit‘ I yell. I could see the opposite mountain range, which meant the river I needed to cross to get to the main trail was in the bottom of the valley. I could just bush-bash down and find it easy right? It was a 450m drop, very steep. I decided ‘fuck it, down I go’ – the Matt approach to difficult situations. I’ll summarise what took four hours to get to the bottom.

“FUCKING BAMBOO, FUCKING RED FLOWER SPIKY PLANT… FUCCCCCCCK! OW! SHIT! WORST DECISION EVER! IM GOING TO FUCKING DIE IN THIS BAMBOO SHIT!!! OOOWW MY SHINS! A SWAMP! – YOU’RE FUCKING JOKING! FUUUUUCK OFF BAMBOO YOU C***!“

I laugh thinking back to it haha, because it was a terrible decision, but it was one of the worst experiences of my life at the time! Bamboo is not fun to push through, and my shins were bruised from it. The climb down also involved sliding down fallen trees, sometimes over large drops below.

During those brutal four hours, I even lost my phone (found it half hour later), lost my sunglasses and the bamboo even ate my hellfest band that I had been wearing for over two years. No more insta-conversations with metalheads *sigh*. When I got down to the bottom a looming swamp awaited me. Walk through it? I tried, sinking to my thigh in muddy peat and almost lost my shoe. Another route had to be made back around the base of the mountain.

I made a waypoint on my app and worked my way toward it. This part was even harder than the way down. The bamboo was thicker, and like trying to walk through fences. It took another hour to reach the river, which was only  150m from where I first came down.

I then had to cross the river, which was waist deep in places. I waded around the shallower edge until I found some easier rocks to jump across. The river was less painful, so I was happy to get wet in avoiding bamboo. Once I crossed I met red flower spiky plant, but I was used to pain by now and pushed through it. ‘The trail! I made it’ I yell in relief.

I didn’t make it to the refugio or campsite, and only walked one or two kilometers before finding an ok spot by the river and set up camp. My clothes were covered in debris from bush bashing and had a quick wash. I was wrecked after that day, and I didn’t even travel far. I made a cheesy salami lentil pasta conglomeration and went straight to sleep from exhaustion.

Thurs (26/01) – Mt Tronador

I felt much better after the rest and my shins weren’t in too much pain. I packed up, and headed down the trail until the turn off to get up to refugio Mallin on Mt Tronador where I planned on staying. It was a climb of over 1km, to reach the 2000km altitude right at the edge of the glacier. It was designed for horseback too, so it was fairly well graded and a gentle slope, but long.

Not only were horseflies in numbers here, but also small floating flies – gnats maybe? Can I just call them eye-fly fuckers? I ended up eating one by accident from inhaling! 😮 It was then that I pulled out my mosquito head-net for the first time. I looked like an idiot, but everyone I passed was envious. The sight of waterfall streaming off the glacier at one point was incredible.

It took me a good four hours to reach the refugio. It was located on a sloped rocky platform between two glaciers and the main glacier looking towards the peak in the centre.I was one of the first there and got to pick from all campsites. I chose a spot tucked behind a rocky cliff and had a rock wall built. It looked quite protected by wind. I then walked around the outskirts and took photos.

I’ve been below glaciers before, but never really above them looking into the crevices. It was something special to experience walking around there. Although I was still some 1400m from then 3400m peak, it was different from any other peak ice been on.

There were five Argentinian guys setting up camp nearby, and I said hello. They invited me for conversation and some food. Most were ok with English, but two were limited. They explained Mate (the drink) to me – think a type of tea, and showed me how it works in a social context by passing it around.

It wasn’t bad, can’t say I’d drink it in a non-social way though. They then showed me an alcoholic drink Argentinians drink which is mixed with coke, called Fernet. It was interesting, not bad, reminded me of an old mint-esque chewing gum flavour that I can’t quite pin down.

I ended up seeing the South African guys again which was funny as we went completely different ways almost three days ago. They did a two part trip to come back here.

I had dinner and a beer at the refugio that night, as my supplies were short and I craved something that wasn’t pasta or rice. A piece of roast beef and mashed potato with bread and a small entree. It went down nicely. Sadly, it cost an arm and a leg, as all the food is transported up by horseback. I was going to get some night photos of the stars and mountain, but it got cold and breezy, so I went to bed.

Not five minutes later, and the wind was raging. I’ve never experienced such strong wind, and my tent was vulnerable due to not being able to get pegs into the rock. The wind hit the unprotected side of my tent hard and pushed my off my sleeping pad onto the other side.

Loose parts of my tent were flapping like crazy and driving me insane, so I ended up opening the two sides and just letting the current flow through. This helped a lot, as it wasn’t a cold wind. I still didn’t sleep at all that night.

Fri (27/01)

I got out at sunrise with the wind still raging and packed up quickly. The random guy next to me looked at me shaking his head. We laughed because it didn’t need explaining any context – we both had a shit sleepless night. I sat in the refugio for an hour or so to relax. I should have slept inside here in hindsight!

The walk back down was fast and easier, despite being harder on knees. This was mainly because I took all the shortcuts and didn’t follow the main horseback trail. I made a detour to see the waterfalls made by the melting glacier below. It’s amazing to think how much water comes out of these things every day in summer.

My last stop was Pampa Linda. Which was a locality with a few buildings including a hotel/hostel and a restaurant. I had a huge lunch and a beer whilst waiting for the 5pm bus. I spoke to some Argentinian guys, one into similar music which kept us occupied until the bus.

The bus ride was spectacular, I got to see the massive blue lake I could always see in the distance during my hike. It stretched forever and had quaint holidays resorts along its edge tucked away in the forest. When I arrived back into town I went back to the hostel I stayed at before and relaxed thinking over the awesome last week.

Hike Summary

The Good:

• Challenging terrain for experience
• The Mt Tronador hike being spectacular with its glaciers
• Lake Azul and the walk up to it
• Captains lookout
• Meeting nice people on the way

The Bad: 

• Deciding to make my own trail through bamboo and a swamp!
• Needed more dinner varieties with food
• The wind on the last night
• Expensive bus back to Bariloche

~ Continue my Patagonian travels with ‘Bariloche and El Bolson – Patagonia‘ ~

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