A Classic Summer Roadtrip Around the New Zealand Central Alps South Island Loop
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South Island Central Alps Loop
The New Zealand South Island Central Alps loop is a scenic road trip driven via the inland highway, and west coast around the central alps. Blue glacial lakes, the stunning alps, and great landscape features are plentiful. This blog post shares some sights that can be seen along this route if travelling by car. Some of these are famous locations, but a lot are less popular (and just as good!).
This loop was driven start to finish via Queenstown, and the post follows a chronological order of things to see along the way. There are many ways to do this route, but most people generally do the loop using Arthurs Pass, and Aspiring Pass as the two gateway highways to the West Coast. This post is just one example of such a route i’ve been on in the area, which is why there are some obvious omissions e.g. Wanaka region, Mt Cook, and Fox Glacier.
Lindis Pass
Lindis Pass is one of the higher sections of South Island’s highway network. During winter, it is often snow covered, but in summer, it is flourishing with lupins.
Lake Ohau
Lake Ohau is one of the 3 main Central Alps lakes in the Mackenzie district. It is fed by the Dobson and Hopkins Rivers, and feeds into Lake Benmore. Butting into the lake is the end of the Ben Ohau Range.
My intention for visiting the lake was to get into the valleys behind for hikes. However, the weather was undesirable and rain was on the cards. Camping at the freedom camping site on the lakes edge was a good place to see out the bad weather.
Lake Pukaki
Lake Pukaki is the middle of the three glacial lakes in the region. The foreground of Mt Cook, the lake is always a highlight of a road trip through the region. Having stayed by its shore along Haymans Road before, it was an obvious stop over choice for my trip.
I had taken my packraft with me on the trip, and had a spontaneous decision to make a trip out to Morgans Island, situated not far from the shore about a third up the lake. I walked around the entire island, a surreal experience with its remote charm and bird colonies.
The Drive to, and along Braemar Road
Driving between Lake Pukaki and Lake Tekapo can be done by highway, but it’s much more scenic in summer to drive Braemar Road as a detour. This is a dirt road accessed near Tekapo itself and halfway down Hayman Road along Lake Pukaki. This s a scenic drive for views especially when lupin flowers are in bloom.
Peel Forest and Emily Falls
Heading north into the Canterbury region, Peel Forest has been a place I’ve always wanted to visit for its waterfalls. It is located near the Rangitata River near Arundel.
Mount Sunday
Famous for its significance in Lord of the Rings as the site of Edoras, Mount Sunday lies further upstream on the Rangitata River, closing in on the Southern Alps. The walk there is quite easy and short, and offers great views of the region.
Cave Stream
Located near Castle Hill Conservation Area, Cave Stream is a often looked-over must do activity. It is a small stream that runs through the limestone for 594m, with two entrances at each end. It is common to start from the lower exit and work your way up the stream. Initially, there is a deep pool, a good indicator of the water level inside. This was quite deep, but it turns shallower soon after.
There is also a notable small waterfall to climb at the end which was actually quite challenging. Apparently there are bolts in place to assist this climb, but i didn’t see them when i was there. As long as there is one fit member in the group, this part should be fine, as they can help up the less fit members.
Overall, this was great fun, and i highly recommend it. Don’t forget to take multiple light sources! Take good fitting shoes – it’s fast flowing water at times. I found a T-shirt and shorts suitable, you warm up fast with the physical activity, but a light wool thermal layer might help some.
Arthurs Pass
Arthurs Pass is the central most gateway between the east and west coasts, and a fantastic area for hiking. This was my second trip to the region – I had been before, but only as a drive through. This trip I wanted to do some more hiking in the region, and decided on a Bealey – Avalanche Peak Loop overnight trip, and a short walk to Punchbowl Falls.
I will be writing up about my Bealey – Avalanche Peak Loop overnight hiking trip soon in a separate post.
Pancake Rocks
Pancake Rocks is a spectacular limestone formation on the west coast by the small village of Punakaiki. This is a great example of biology transforming into geology, as dead marine micro-organisms form layers on the bottom of the ocean many millions of year ago. Then, these layers solidify into rock from pressure over time. Finally, tectonic uplift occurs, and the ocean bed is pushed out of the water over millions of years, and eroded into what we see today!
The walk is relatively short in both distance, and time (depending on how often you stop), and should be easy for most people. There are many sights to see, including cool rock formations, several bird colonies, Hectors dolphins, native vegetation, crashing waves, and finally – blow holes, which are visible mainly at a high tide.
Hokitika and Surrounding Area
Blue Spur Walk
This short walk takes you through an old mining area that has been taken back over by nature. Despite clearly once being part of civilization, nature has entirely claimed the area back and it’s quite beautiful and relaxing. The biggest perk was that there was no-one else there! To reach Blue Spur, head west about 15 minutes from Hokitika by car (Google Maps link).
Hokitika Gorge
A tourist hotspot, for a good reason – it’s breathtakingly beautiful! To get here, you need to drive about half hour from Hokitika, south and inland (Google Maps link). The walk to get here is short and easy with a swing bridge to cross. This was my second visit to this spectacular blue water paradise. A great short swim on a hot day – just don’t venture into the main flow!
Woodstock Domain and Glow-worm Dell
This is for the freedom campers spending a night in the area. Woodstock Domain is a great little spot to spend a night (don’t forget to make a donation!). It is located alongside the Hokitika River near Kaniere, about 15 minutes out of Hokitika. Near the domain, is a track taking you uphill onto Woodstock-Rimu Road, where the dell is located (Google Map link). The good thing about this glow-worm dell is that it is largely unknown! One of the more underrated glow-worm locations for sure! Make sure you stay up late (or get up very early) to see them! I tried a few different types of long exposure shots here, and was very happy!
Mananui Bush and Beach Walk
Heading a few minutes south from Hokitika on the highway (Google Maps link), is a short 10 minute walk to the coast. It is a pretty little walk through forest, and exploring the beach for stones is a must-do activity!
Franz Josef Glacier
Perhaps the big highlight of the West Coast has to be Franz Josef Glacier. Whilst it’s perhaps not the largest or most spectacular glacier in New Zealand – it is easily accessible and well worth the trip. The weather was not great, but it also wasn’t as bad as i thought for viewing the glacier, and had another bonus – no people! I did the Robert Point track, one of the more challenging and rewarding of the main walks which gives you arguably the best view of the lower end of the glacier. A helicopter flight would be ideal here – next time!
Bruce Bay
Make sure you stop over on the side of the road at Bruce Bay for a coffee break and stretch your legs on the beach! This section of the drive is LONG and there isn’t many stopovers.
Aspiring Pass Drive
Between the tiny village of Haast and the town of Wanaka, the long drive between has some great short stopovers to check out. My favourite is Blue Pools, though it’s also quite popular. The waterfalls are nice, but you’ll see better ones elsewhere in the country – still worth a look though!
Kawarau Bridge
On my way back to Queenstown to finish the trip, a stopover on the Kawarau River was on the cards. I’d driven past this location many times and wanted to finally check it out (not bungy!). I even took a drive up Chard Rd for a detour and different view.
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