Truly Alone in the Wild (near Ebbetts Peak) – PCT 2017: A Hiking Story [26]

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Part 25 ‘The Waterfalls of Yosemite & Sonora Pass’ 

Day 80 (17/06) – Nobles Pass and Self-Reflections

I’m not sure if it was the cold, the first light of dawn, or just my body clock that awoke me at 5am. It was much earlier than I’d have liked, due to the ‘late’ night before. It took me a long time to get out of bed. Cowboy camping was always going to be much colder, but I didn’t really have a choice. The view of the sunrise was so pleasant, however, and lingering in bed a little longer to dwell on it was ok by me!
Let’s talk about sidling… or side-ridge walking as I often described it on trail. By now, this was becoming such a pain in the arse, as the snow was often steep and traction was tough. The PCT loved sidling, and whilst it’s fine on trail, on snow, it’s very tedious! So here I was again, side-ridge walking, wanting to finish them and get into the valley below! The snow hadn’t firmed up all that much, despite the cold night, but the spikes still had a traction benefit.

Whilst hiking, I contemplated what I had done so far on the PCT and whether or not my decisions (in general) were good so far overall. I came to the conclusion that starting early had major benefits:

1. The trail was not abused,
2. The amount of water was less, and
3. It was not crowded.

It also had downsides:

1. You have to blaze trails through the snow (kick in steps, etc) instead of them already being there,
2. It’s lonely and rare to meet new people, and
3. You are blind to conditions (people behind will get informed decisions using social media about trail conditions from people like myself).

I attempted to justify my decision to skip ahead last the dangerous river crossings (just over 100 miles worth), but decided I didn’t really mind. It’s a tough year for the PCT already, and I’m no purist in walking every single mile – I just want to hike, meet other like-minded hikers, be out in nature, and enjoy freedom. I’ve met people for a range of reasons on the PCT.

In summary, I’m happy with my decisions, and I decided that slowing down a little to let the bulk of the hikers catch up will be good for meeting new people. Spending the 4th of July at Rex’s parent’s place will help this and give me a well-earned break for several days.

By around 2-3pm, I was getting tired and the heat was draining my energy. I started looking for campsites, but couldn’t find anything that wasn’t snow-covered, or had running water nearby. I climbed the high ridge for a vantage point and eagle-eyed a good site about half a mile ahead around the corner, which was on the PCT anyway! It was a patch of soil and some grass with some snow melt running over one side. It was 4pm and I was relieved to finally set up camp. I needed to filter the water due to the previous season’s stale cow pats, and many insects by its edge. I got in my tent, made some ramen – something I don’t eat too often on trail (a joke), and chilled out to some music until the blistering sun went behind the mountain.

Distance hiked: 14.5 miles

Total PCT hiked: 1035 miles

Day 81 (19/06) – Ebbetts Peak and Sherrold Lake

Ah, t’was a lovely sleep… aside from that damn irremovable pointy rock in my hip! I did sleep well though and set off at 6am feeling refreshed. The snow was basically the same softness as when I set up camp the night before, probably not cold enough to be firm for hiking.

As per usual, no trail or footsteps to follow. I needed to constantly check my GPS to ensure I was at least somewhat heading in the right direction. Much of the time I made my own trail to avoid difficult show chutes. At one point, I found the remains of a helium balloon… again! This was at least the 10th one I had seen in the forest all over the trail (I think I mentioned one back in the desert). I’m so against people releasing balloons now after seeing how much litter they cause in nature.

Between miles 1042 and 1043 was a steep side-ridge walk in which I made the mistake of attempting to stick to the trail. It was time-consuming and difficult to traverse. I needed to dig in (pointy blade) with my upper hand and I used one pole for extra stability in the other lower hand. It took me around 2 hours to get past, and reach Nelson Saddle. In hindsight, I should have just followed the snow-covered river down the bottom and vertically climbed at the end. Nothing is worse or harder in my opinion than side-ridge traversing on steep snow.

I attempted to glissade down from the top, but it wasn’t steep enough to get far, so all I ended up with was a wet arse for nothing! The trail went down a river to the far right side, but there was another river going down the left side which linked up with the trail further down. I decided to take this one as I knew it would be full of snow anyway. It was a good decision, and I could glissade a lot of the way in the narrow snow corridor. Along the way were fine specimens of ancient conglomerate river beds, which was awesome to see as I hadn’t seen a lot of sedimentary rock formations in the trail really.

After a few more up-and-down climbs and a (closed) road crossing, I reached Ebbetts Peak, and on the other side was Sherald Lake. It was looking like a storm was on the way and I felt like this was a good dry spot to set up before it rained. As soon as I set up and started cooking dinner at 5pm, it started to thunder and then came hail stones. Luckily I had prepared my tent for rain earlier! The hail grew stronger and also began to rain heavily. After about 45 minutes the rain ceased, luckily, aside from a couple of drops, I remained dry.

Distance hiked: 14 miles

Total PCT hiked: 1049 miles

Day 82 (19/06) – A Tough Snow Blockade and Lily Pad Lake

The storm had left the morning… oddly warm… or at least warmer than any past morning. Summer was becoming real! Lakes (including the one next to me) were becoming exposed, snow was getting patchier (and was not firming up overnight), and it felt hot!

The day involved a lot of ‘actual trail’ hiking, certainly more than I’ve been used to in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. However, it was not all easy. Although there was a visible trail, it was only at certain angles that the sun had the greatest exposure. Therefore, in every gully, or indent on the terrain (e.g. a creek), there were still huge snow fields or snow chutes. This made the day very tedious with taking on and off microspikes (which were greatly needed) and swapping out the ice axe for dual poles. The trail-to-snow ratio would have been about 50% each way.

When I got to mile 1059, I had a problem. There was a huge snow blockade on the trail up ahead. I could have gotten around it by traversing down and below the snow blockade, and then climbing back up the dirt slope. However, this wouldn’t be easy. Alternatively, I could get around it by going far off the trail, over the ridge to my left. It meant climbing a very steep and long snow chute.

I checked my topo map, and noted the contours in the area. This was quickly becoming the first thing I do in every new section now. My confidence in the snow was strong, and I was often finding alternate routes to bypass side-ridge hiking if possible. The PCT likes to ascend at a very gentle steepness, meaning a lot of side-ridge walking and switchbacks. However, in heavy snow years like this one, it is problematic. The reason it’s hard is that it’s often riskier with loose footing and the effort isn’t worth the mileage, especially if there are switchbacks.

After checking the map, I found a route that goes up and over to the left of the snowed-over section, then, around the back of the mountain. I could then rejoin the PCT following a stream bed about 4.5 miles ahead. More accurately, this route I was planning to take was at the base of the north-west ridge of Raymond Peak, where the PCT kinks in a valley. It wasn’t an easy decision. and it was going to be hard. I had no idea how snowed over the rear of the mountain was going to be, but it couldn’t be worse, right?

Up I went, firstly over rock scree and then, a show chute. It was even bigger and steeper than I first noticed before I went over the rocky hill. No matter, just press on! The technique went like this:

1. The left hand jabs in the pointy end of the ice axe as far uphill as I can reach. This serves two purposes: a) It is my safety anchor to prevent me from sliding – if I do slide, I would also use it to self-arrest, and b) I can pull my upper body up with it, rather than straining my legs.
2. Right arm jabs in the pole a little ahead to the right. This is only for supporting my shifting movements.
3. Left foot kicks in step (often requires multiple kicks for one step).
4. The right foot does the same after the left foot.
5. Repeat the steps again.

It was straining on my back, as I needed to keep my pack weight forward, but it went smoothly. I made it to the top and proceeded over to the other side of the mountain. It was a great feeling, as it was certainly one of the more technical things I had to do with the risk involved if I had taken a slide

Once over the other side, I noticed it was good – only snow towards the bottom in usual spots aside from two snow chutes in river valleys to my left that I’d need to cross. I proceeded down these snow chutes and then climbed a hill on the far side. The next valley was my exit, and I took the snowed-in river bed as expected from the map. I could slide down these sections too! Finally, I arrived where the PCT meets the river and continued on. ‘I wonder if someone else will take my route’ I think to myself, laughing.

I was spent after the big up and downs of the day. A little further I pressed on, and found an awesome campsite next to the beautiful Lily Pad Lake at mile 1063. I finally got to have a swim and even washed my clothes (soapless of course). The water was delightful and not too cold. I was now butt naked whilst my clothes were drying and did the rest of my chores in the nude, because why the hell not! Also, I needed some tanning on this white ass!

Distance hiked: 14 miles

Total PCT hiked: 1063 miles

Day 83 (20/06) – The Nipple and an Elephants Back

I was far more efficient this morning and left in good time, by 5:30am. The morning hike was one of the classic trail hiking… snow hiking…trail hiking… snow hiking… types.

I was looking forward to getting reception, apparently there would be reception near The Nipple (a peak). I hadn’t had service since Sonora Peak back when I started this stretch.

Once near The Nipple in reception, I got the notification bomb. I immediately received disturbing news from my family – my pop had passed away. He was my final remaining grandparent, and knowing he was gone, and not with my family upset me. I was also quite upset after thinking back to my childhood when I remember him best. I took a long time to process it all, and shed some tears. After several hours, I felt a little better, and planned to have a family call when I arrived in South Lake Tahoe.

Later on around midday, I arrived at another snow obstacle on Elephants Back (what is with these weird Peak names haha). This was a steep mountain that you need to climb, and sidle around its shoulder. The trail went diagonally up the side of the mountain, but was entirely covered by snow. It was a slog, but not too bad!

Once having climbed over the shoulder, there was a final steep climb to go. I could follow the trail, but it would take too long, and decided to use my old faithful ‘straight up’ technique. It was a very steep slope around 70 degrees near the top – somewhat daunting, although didn’t pose any real danger if I slipped… aside from bouncing off a few trees and then having to climb it all again. I got pretty tired near the top, and my joints were aching, but I made it!

When I got over the top, I found fresh tracks ‘people… here?…’ I think to myself (not having seen anyone since the cop Shaun who dropped me off). I did find footprints scattered around all trying to get to Frog Lake which I just passed. The tracks went EVERYWHERE! ‘Do people even know where they were going?’ I said to myself. It made navigation hard for me in the snow, because naturally if there are tracks, it’s often easier to just follow them so you can relax and not have to navigate.

Eventually, I made it to Carson Pass, a road junction to the PCT. I was greeted by volunteers helping hikers get information about the area, and they offered me a chicken, cheese and basil leaf sandwich, grapes and a bottle of coke! Amazing – trail magic! It had been so long since I had unexpected trail magic. I was very thankful and chatted with them for about half an hour. The lady was telling me she was going back to Australia to a little town called Taree – I laughed and told her I lived near there and my sister does actually live there – small world!

A few others were interested in my trip and I talked to them briefly before leaving. I signed the PCT hiker register – only the third entry! More had come through than that for sure, but still… I felt… too far ahead now. The longing to be with more hikers was getting real.

I rejoined the PCT on the other side of the road, and saw a couple of day-hikers slipping and sliding around (including a fall) on the snow trying to get back to the trailhead – day-hikers are amusing to watch! Eventually, the day-hiker tracks wore thin and I was back to being alone on the trail.

Most of the rest of the day was a long meadow walk – flat too – which was nice because I was totally beaten, and in zombie mode with jelly legs. I hiked (or what I’d more appropriately call ‘slithered’) through the snow in this section all the way until my last obstacle – another steep hill. There was a supposed campsite here, and the meadow was a swamp, so I needed to get up. I don’t know how I did it, I was ready to start climbing with my teeth! My legs and even arms were ready to fall off by now!

Along the meadow, it was either snow-covered or a giant swamp. At one point there was a sketchy snow bridge over the Upper Truckee River that I needed to cross. There was nowhere else to cross without getting my feet wet so I took the risk and went for it! I made it with a giant leap thankfully!

I found the only non-snowed-over piece of land by Showers Lake, and set up a cowboy camp near a rock. I was too exhausted to put up my tent. When I started cooking dinner, a marmot appeared, and was eating the ground where I had peed – maybe for the salts? I hate marmots and threw small stones at it when it got too close to my food (as it didn’t care for my roaring). What a day it had been – 19 miles was a lot in the snow!

Distance hiked: 19 miles

Total PCT hiked: 1082 miles

Next Post:

Part 27 ‘South Lake Tahoe, Dicks Pass & Frozen Lakes’ 

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