The Waterfalls of Yosemite & Sonora Pass – PCT 2017: A Hiking Story [25]
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Part 24 ‘Solo Hiking to Yosemite Valley’
Day 77 (14/06) – Yosemite Falls and Eagles Peak
I feel like I didn’t sleep enough, but got around to my routine of coffee and oats slowly. At least this time I didn’t have to completely pack up as I was camping there at the backpacker’s campground again in the heart of Yosemite Valley.
Today was all about ‘day hiking’ – what a strange concept after already hiking halfway through California! All I had in my backpack was a jacket, toilet stuff, a bottle of water, and some snacks. Of course, I had my trusty camera too. All other items remained in my tent.
I left the campground at 6am, and headed to the trailhead of Upper Yosemite Falls. This was unfortunately a 45-minute walk without a shuttle bus active at that hour (like I cared by this point!). I had gotten there early enough to know I was one of the first to start climbing, but, there were a few other smart early starters. This is one of those popular hikes that becomes a tourist train in the middle of the day.
The climb was not a joke… it went up, up, up alright! From 4000 feet (1219m) to 7650 feet (2331m) to reach Eagles Peak, about 6 miles worth of hiking. The steepest part of the hike to the top of the falls was only about a 2.8-mile hike, but Eagles Peak was further along the tops. When I arrived at the Overlook of the falls, I was astounded! The waterfall was immense and fell onto the rocks below with force! Yosemite Falls is in three sections, the largest upper fall, a flat midsection and then the lower falls. However, you couldn’t see the lower falls from anywhere but the bottom. I jumped the safety rail which was over-cautiously cut in from the edge and had lunch with a good view of the falls dissipating into the valley below – pure wonder!
After the falls I backtracked to the junction to continue up to Eagles Peak. These next 3 miles to the peak were easier, but with a less established trail, akin to the PCT. The winter had done its damage up there too though, with fallen trees and snow melt swamps everywhere making it harder than it should be.
Once I reached the peak I was blown away by the spectacular view of the valley below. The view was due East and straight ahead was Half Dome. I sat up there for at least an hour, taking in the views and doing some blogging (no connection in the valley) before leaving.
It took me barely 2 hours to get back down to the bottom, I was flying past the now-hoard of tourists. Sometimes, a casual hiker would appear, obvious by the attire, gear, or backpack, but most people were checkbox tourists – here to get that one snap of the falls before leaving. I arrived back at camp and chatted with my new camp neighbour – a Swiss guy who was biking from Mexico to Canada! Almost the same thing, except he was using more roads, as bikers can’t use the PCT trail.
I then went to Half Dome Village and got a burger, some Doritos and ice cream from the store. Followed by a long neck of beer whilst catching up with things on the phone.
Distance hiked: 8 miles
Day 78 (15/06) – The Mist Trail and a Sonora Detour
Today I would leave via a bus in the late afternoon to Sonora, a town I was using as a gateway to resupply, and bypass the flooded river section north of Tuolumne Meadows. From here, I would rejoin the PCT at Sonora Pass, unfortunately skipping a huge chunk of the PCT.
I had to pack up this morning so that I didn’t need to pay for another day at the campsite, yet still be able to spend the day hiking. My gear was shoved in the bear locker nearby (bear lockers are metal containers built into each campsite to store food so the bears can’t get to it). I again, used my pack to carry some food, a jacket and water.
I intended on hiking up to Half Dome originally today, but decided on just doing the Mist Trail again in more detail, as I only did part of it previously. I left super early to avoid the hoards of people. However, it did mean a 2-mile walk to the trailhead, as there were no shuttle buses then. By the time I hit the trail, there were only a few couples – perfect!
It was much better hiking the Mist Trail looking toward the waterfalls, and being able to take in their beauty this time. I got wet at Vernal Falls – that’s for sure, but was able to at least take one or two photos before my camera had to be holstered in its little raincoat-protected bag.
Nevada Falls was just as spectacular, but you walk further away from it and don’t get wet. I walked up to the top of it and had a long relaxing break – taking in the scenery (and taking advantage of some 4G reception). I chose a spot to eat to the left of the falls where no one goes and got some photos.
On the way down, I took the John Muir Trail side to the left – you get pretty wet early on from a side waterfall! People put on rain jackets to go through these water sections, but it was such a hot day, that the cold water was a welcome cool down.
When I returned to the campground, I packed the gear out of the bear locker into my pack and headed to Half Dome Village to chill out, and he some food and beverages before the bus arrived. I ordered a huge pizza and some beers – the pizza was sensational! It was too big to finish, so I got a box for the rest of it, and made my way across the valley to the visitor centre where the bus was arriving.
When I arrived and took a seat, a girl next to me (Jess) started talking to me about my trip and we ended up having a huge conversation about travelling. She was on a road trip in her car visiting national parks until she arrived at her folk’s place in Denver, Colorado. When we got on the bus, another older guy from the area joined in our conversation and taught us about some of the history of the area which was awesome.
Once in Sonora, Jess drove me to the motel she was staying at, as it was the cheapest. I’d already researched and found nothing remotely affordable. I got a room nearby to hers. She had cooking equipment and made a nice dinner which she shared with me. I bought a few drinks from the gas station and we chilled out before retiring to sleep in our separate rooms.
Distance hiked: 10 miles
Day 79 (16/06) – Sonora and Sonora Pass
The hotel bed and cool air-con made for good sleep. The complimentary breakfast was first, which was very basic but satisfying enough, along with some drip coffee in my room. I said good morning to Jess, she was packing up and leaving around 10am.
I looked at what I needed for my resupply, and then packed up as well. Jess and I said farewell to each other and parted ways. She wanted to see my blog, so I gave her the address.
I then checked out and walked to the supermarket with my pack. I couldn’t be bothered lugging food back to the hotel only to have to head off in the same direction later anyway – so it came with me and sat in my shopping trolley (cart). When I finished, I asked if I could sort out my resupply on the little table they were selling out front opposite the door. It probably looked weird for people walking in as to why I was making a huge mess there.
I had to road walk quite a bit after that. Luckily, I brought a huge punnet of strawberries and threw in some blueberries and ate them as I walked, which was refreshing. I needed to go to Big 5 – an outdoor store to buy a gas canister, then get to the entrance of the highway to hitch to Sonora Pass, about an hour away. I knew it was going to be a tough hitch, so I asked the restaurant nearby for a large piece of cardboard and made a sign that read:
“PCT HIKER TO TRAIL – just after Kennedy Meadows north resort – thanks!“
I initially walked too far up the highway and realised people were already at high speed. So, I instead walked back down to where it was slower, and ‘thumbed out’ anyway. By the time I reached the intersection I intended to be at, a guy pulls over on the other side of the road. I think he yelled out that he was going back that way and will turn. There was a lot of traffic though and he couldn’t turn. Shortly after, a sheriff pulls up behind him – ‘Fuck’ I think, if he gets booked it’s because of me. To my surprise, he told the guy to move on, and that he will take me to the trailhead. ‘Hurrah!‘ I thought, my second cop hitch!
At first, I found the sheriff (Shaun) hard to talk to because I couldn’t tell if he was either annoyed or fine in giving me a hitch – Sonora Pass was a long way away! He told me it was his service area anyway and called it in on the radio. I then found out he enjoys hiking too and has some interest in hiking the PCT but hasn’t convinced himself yet. ‘Was this the reason he gave me a hitch?‘, I think. Maybe he just wanted inspiration from my travels to find the courage to do it himself. It felt weird because by the end of the conversation. I was basically telling him she should do the PCT after he retires at the end of the year and that he shouldn’t let his mild fear of heights get in the way (told him Rex’s story) – he was on on-duty sheriff haha! He’s meant to be telling me what to do.
After continuous conversation for the entire trip, we finally arrive at the Sonora Pass trailhead around 9000 feet high – the usual sight of 100% snow cover awaits me. I said goodbye to Shaun and went on my way.
It was already 5pm at this point, and I wanted to get some miles down after being off trail for a couple of days. Sonora Peak was the initial challenge. Whilst it’s not a summit I needed to make, I wish I had as it would have been much easier than attempting to get up to the trail, which meanders around the same contour up high in the peak, all the way around the back too.
There were some patches without snow, but almost everywhere had it, and it was steep. It was super slow going and I barely got around the back before it was 8pm and growing dark. The only spot I could find was a tiny flat spot amongst an exposed rock, just enough for my sleeping pad to fit in – cowboy camping in the snowscape tonight!
The sunset was so very pretty as I set up my little campsite as best I could. I then made some pasta and hot chocolate for dinner. I didn’t get to bed until after 10pm.
Distance hiked: 4 miles
Total PCT hiked: 1021 miles
(this number just indicates where I’m up to on the PCT – not really the total distance hiked. I have skipped some sections for dangerous water crossings and have done extra sections too, as to attempt to make up some miles)
Next Post:
Part 26 ‘Truly Alone in the Wild (near Ebbetts Peak)’
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