Lake Isabella & Last Stops Before the Snow and Mountains! – PCT 2017: A Hiking Story [15]

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Part 14 ‘Nearing the End of the Desert?’ 

Day 44 (11/05) – ‘Getting Royal’

Wet… everything… wet.

‘Damn’ I think to myself. I knew it wasn’t going to rain, but sleeping so close to the water source meant mist fell on us. It meant that our early pack-up was better to be delayed, so we could dry our gear in the first light.

Corky had already taken off earlier, but Rex, myself and the other guys packed up later on. We hit the trail at about 8am. It was only 8 miles into Lake Isabella – our next destination.

Gloriously, when we arrived at Walker Pass campground, there was trail magic to be had! We met Medic and Candyman, both leaving, but exchanged hellos. Two girls who started the trail (but were now off trail) were managing the trail magic. They offered sandwiches, fruit, snacks and a cooler full of beer and soda. We met several new hikers here, including my first other Australian – Rattler. The ‘guys’ also rocked up, and eventually, myself, Rex, Akuna, Rubberball, Grim, Figure 8 and Papa Gizmo (a random couple) all left in one of the trail angels’ cars to Lake Isabella. Somehow we all fit – we were getting used to tight hitches by now!

All of us but the couple got out at a dingy motel in town for the night. Rex and I shared one room, whilst the other guys shared another. It was nice to ‘get royal’ – a term we made up to describe the feeling after a shower on the trail. You seriously feel like a privileged celebrity after a PCT shower!

We resupplied at the supermarket in town, knowing that we needed a lot of food to get us to Lone Pine, about 8 days away. We also had lunch and milkshakes at the diner. Upon returning to the motel, we had a quick swim in the pool with some Gin and Tonic. The water was freezing, a brief and unfulfilling experience, but whatever, haha. Eventually, we all sat around talking and ordered pizza.

Distance hiked: 7 miles (11.27 km)

Total PCT hiked: 651 miles (1,047.68 km)

Day 45 (12/05) – Lake Isabella Zero Day

Today was our zero day, no hiking, just chilling. We did need to strip down and pack away our resupplies bought the day before. Eventually, after some tight squeezing, we crammed everything into our packs.

We then had coffee over Wi-Fi in the café and got a lift with Doc, who was staying at the campground outside of town with Corky and a few others.

Upon arriving, we met two new hikers and had some beers at the bar and chilled at the pool. The pool was slightly warmer than before, and it was nice to get some last-minute sun.

Apparently, they moved the hikers into the crappy corner near the roadside, which was dusty and devoid of cover from the strong and cold wind that evening. Rex and I chose to camp by the gas cylinder as it was fairly well protected from the wind near a fence, luckily we didn’t smoke!

We napped for an hour after drinking a large quantity of alcohol, realised it was still only 8:30pm and decided to get milkshakes at the bar later, joining in with Corky, Doc and a new face, Lightning.

Doc informed me also that Echo had returned to the trail. I remember feeling a strong bro connection with him – and immediately went to give him a hug welcoming him back. We talked for a bit – he was temporarily off-trail, struggling with a work offer declination, and we were trying to convince him that there will be work later. He was going through a bit of trail depression and not in a great place, but sounded happy to be back on the trail.

Day 46 (13/05) – Barren hills north of Walker Pass

After packing up and moving to where the others were, we all got rides back to the trail. We went back to the same trail magic area at Walker Pass (where we had left the trail previously) and set off.

Echo went off ahead quite fast and we lost him quickly, but Rex, Corky and I generally hiked together. Echo had definitely changed mentally, we all noticed. Rex was herself, usually hiking as fast as me, and Corky was always a bit slower behind – but either way, we always make it to our chosen camping destination together… or near-about.

There were no flat sections in this part, and was a series of up and over steep hills. The wind was vicious early on – reminding me of the strong winds in Patagonia from my travels right before the PCT. Eventually, after at least 5 miles, it gave way somewhat and warmed up a little.

We camped near one of the only water sources – a stream. It was hidden away and I had to signal the others for them to see where I was.

Distance hiked: 17 miles

Total PCT hiked: 669 miles

Day 47 (14/05) – Horse Friends

The morning was cold. I had to snuggle up to Rex to steal some of the warmth from her overly warm Feathered Friends sleeping bag (George as she calls it). My Enlightened Equipment quilt just doesn’t cut it in the cold. Corky somehow packed up and left by 7am, but Rex and I struggled. The was no real rush, we planned only 14 miles. We eventually had coffee and breakfast and could pack up after.

Like the day before it was up and over a huge hill. There were many switchbacks and it felt like one of the steeper sections we’d come across so far.

Eventually, we ran into some trail congestion – four horses tied up on the ridge. Passing wasn’t easy, and we had to pat their butts and heads letting them know we were there and friendly to squeeze past. There wasn’t much room with the thin trail, but we all got past. It was quite amusing though!

Shortly after, we met the owners, who were trail maintenance – removing fallen trees on the trail. There were heaps of downed trees in this section, making hiking slow and laborious as we either vaulted or skirted around them.

We made it to our chosen campsite at around 5pm and cooked dinner. I brought out my bottle of gin with some fresh-cut lime and ate my glorious pasta. Rex and Corky also were chowing their pasta down too with Corky’s ‘fresh and funky’ tunes going in the background. It truly is one of the best moments of the day when at camp.

Another early night it seemed, but it was cold and we had a big day tomorrow. This was probably the last night camping remotely in the desert, as Kennedy Meadows – the last point before the big climb up the Sierra mountains was looming in tomorrow!

Distance hiked: 14 miles

Total PCT hiked: 683 miles

Day 48 (15/05) – Mile 700 and Cold Hiking

Freezing again! Damn it!

I edged closer to Rex and sapped some delicious warmth from her bag. At least one side of me was warm! I thought about the Sierra Mountains and my sleeping bags’ pure inefficiency in the cold… how would I cope in the cold snow! We made coffee and somehow got up in the cold to start hiking – a 20-mile day to the infamous Kennedy Meadows.

I hiked in my wool base layer and hiking shirt for most of the day to take the edge off the cold. Rex Corky and I were all smashing out miles fast. It was the fastest hiking we’d done yet. Aside from the one big uphill to begin, it was all downhill and then flat.

When we got to the flat part, we could see the clouds looming over the Sierra Mountains, hiding them. There was rain and it looked to be where we were headed. When we felt the first drops, I put on my homemade Tyvec hiking skirt – the first time I actually used it aside from laundry days when I had no clothes! I had previously posted my rain jacket to Kennedy Meadows back from Wrightwood, knowing the limited rain in the desert. This was the first day it really rained and it was just 5 miles before where I had my jacket – damn! I improvised by making a rain jacket from my tyvek ground sheet. It reminded me of the Mortal Kombat character Raiden! 😛

Around Kern River, the rain eventually grew heavier – I commented to Rex “damn, the rain is really big and slow to fall“. She replied “ummm… that’s because it’s snow!” – it was a very ‘duh‘ moment for me haha. The snowflakes were huge and they looked amazing! Sadly I couldn’t get photos of it.

Eventually, the sun came out and the hot desert began to mist – it looked like a movie set from Lord of the Rings – stunning views everywhere. In this misty area, I passed the 700 milestone marker – hooray!

When I arrived at Kennedy Meadows – I was greeted with claps and cheers from the other hikers waiting at the general store (a PCT tradition). This continued with all hikers who came after me.

Upon arriving I picked up the boxes I had posted to the store – my ice axe, new clothing and shoes and my bounce bucket. I was glad to have new shoes! We then had beers and wine warming around the fireplace inside – drying from the wet hike in.

I knew most people there: Rex, Echo, Corky, Pirate, Rattler (the other Aussie), Swim and about 4-6 new faces. We had pizza for dinner chased down with ice cream, and then had an early night.

Distance hiked: 20 miles

Total PCT hiked: 702 miles

Next Post: 

Part 16 ‘Kennedy Meadows ‘Into the Mountains We Go!” 

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